Brown Stain in Swimming Pool
Many pool owners are frustrated by mysterious brown stains that seem to appear out of nowhere. These discolorations are typically caused by mineral buildup, tannins oils from leaves, or iron and copper deposits in the water. Our specialized treatment eliminates these stains, restoring your pool’s surface without the need for draining or harsh acid washing.
Common causes of brown staining
- Copper from algaecides
- Contaminated pool salt
- Old copper pipes from heater
- Dead algae staining
- Tannin oils from leaves
- Dirt washing into pool
Got brown stains that won't brush away?
If your pool has stubborn brown stains that don’t fade or are getting worse, it’s time to take action. These stains can become embedded in the pool’s surface, making them much harder to remove.
Metal or mineral deposits, such as iron, contaminated salt, or copper, in the water often cause brown stains. Adding extra chlorine can make these stains worse by oxidizing the metals and minerals, causing them to darken and set more firmly on the pool surface.
If you’ve tried shock chlorinating, scrubbing and algaecides and the stains haven’t improved—or have even darkened—our specialized stain treatment is the solution. Designed to target and lift metal and mineral stains effectively, it can restore your pool’s appearance without draining the pool. Do something about these stains now to stop them from becoming harder to remove later.
Hold on...Will it work on my stain?
Most clients to wonder if our kit will work on their specific type of pool stain. The answer is a confident yes, and here’s why:
Unlike pool store stain removers that use a single ingredient, our product contains a powerful blend of seven active ingredients. This unique, broad-spectrum formula is engineered to tackle 14 different types of stains, so don’t worry, we have you covered—our treatment removes all stain types, saving you time and frustration.
We combine these seven ingredients for two reasons. First, some pools often have multiple types of stains at the same time such as rust, copper, and calcium stains. Our treatment removes them all simultaneously.
Second, our engineered treatment is significantly more powerful. It’s up to six times stronger than pool store stain removers. This increased potency is essential for removing tough stains while the pool is still full of water.
Don’t waste time and money cheap stain removers only to see no results. Get the job done properly the first time.
Brown Stain Removal DIY kit
- 1 bottle (64oz) of powerful brown stain removal formula
- 9 lbs of our brown stain dissolving compound
- Phone support from our technicians
- Simple step-by-step instructions included
- Pool does NOT need to be drained
- Kit shipped and tracked by UPS
- Kids are back in the pool in just 7 days
- Kit is $295 for pools over 12,000 gallons
Brown Stain Removal–
On Site Technician
- 1 bottle (64oz) powerful brown stain removal formula
- 9 lbs of our brown stain dissolving compound
- The pool does NOT need to be drained
- Complete 7 point on site water testing
- Kids are back in the pool in 7 days
- Visit is $405 for pools larger than 12,000 gallons
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Algae stains
While most pool owners associate algae with cloudy green water or slippery walls, the aftermath of an infestation often leaves behind stubborn algae staining. Even after the living organisms have been killed by chlorine or algaecide, their organic pigments can penetrate the porous surfaces of plaster, quartz, or pebble-tec finishes, leaving behind unsightly discolorations.
These stains typically manifest in two colors:
Green Stains: These are stains that look like green algae but don’t respond to anything.
Mustard/Yellow Stains: These appear as a fine, pollen-like dust that clings to the floor and walls.
Copper Stains
Copper staining is one of the most persistent issues a pool owner can face. Copper stains are metallic deposits that chemically bond to the pool’s surface which is why it is hard to remove. They typically appear as a light grey, blue-green, or even blackish-teal discolorations across the floor.
The presence of copper usually stems from three main sources:
Low pH Levels: If the water becomes too acidic, it can corrode copper heat exchangers in pool heaters, dissolving metal into the water.
Mineral Sanitizers: Some “natural” ionizers or copper-based algaecides contain copper as an active ingredient.
Source Water: In certain regions, well water contains naturally occurring minerals that accumulate over time.
Once the copper concentration in the water reaches a saturation point, or if the pH suddenly spikes, the metal precipitates out of the liquid and onto the plaster or liner. Because these are inorganic stains, adding more chlorine will not help—in fact, high chlorine levels can sometimes darken the stain.
Rust Stains
Rust stains usually appear as small, concentrated dark orange or reddish-brown spots rather than a broad discoloration. Rust stains typically originate from a physical object—either dropped into the pool or buried within the structure itself.
External Contaminants: Everyday metal items like hairpins, nails, or toys dropped by swimmers.
Internal Rebar Tie-Wires: If the pool’s concrete shell was poorly constructed, the steel reinforcement (rebar) may be too close to the surface. If water penetrates the plaster, the steel oxidizes, causing a “rust bleed” that bubbles up from beneath.
Equipment Failure: Corroding ladders, light niches, or aged plumbing components.
Because rust is an iron oxide stain, it is highly resistant to scrubbing or chlorine shocks. Our brown stain kit will remove rust stains without draining the pool. However, if the rust is bleeding from the rebar, the only permanent fix is a structural repair.
Iron Stains
Iron staining is perhaps the most common form of metallic discoloration in swimming pools, often turning crystal-clear water into a frustrating shade of “tea” or “rusty orange.” Iron manifests as yellow, tan, or deep reddish-brown streaks and patches. It typically settles on the floor, steps, or around the return jets where water circulation is highest.
The introduction of iron into a pool usually happens in one of two ways.
Well Water: This is often naturally rich in dissolved iron. Even if the water looks clear when it comes out of the hose, the moment you add chlorine, the iron “oxidizes”—essentially rusting instantly in the water and falling out of solution onto your pool’s finish.
Aging galvanized pipes: or low-quality salt used in saltwater generators.
Our brown stain kit removes iron stains every day.
Calcium Scale
Calcium scale is a stubborn, white or light-grey crusty buildup along the waterline, tile, pool surface, and equipment. It occurs when your pool water becomes “oversaturated,” with calcium meaning the water can no longer hold the dissolved minerals in suspension, causing them to crystallize on any available surface.
There are two primary forms of scale:
Calcium Carbonate: A white, flaky film that is the covers most surfaces of the pool. If your pool ONLY has calcium scale then our calcium treatment kit is your best option.
Calcium Silicate: A much tougher, greyish-white deposit that can take years to form. Our calcium treatment kit also treats calcium silicate.
The root cause of scaling is usually a combination of high pH, high alkalinity, and high calcium hardness. When these levels are out of balance, the water becomes “scale-forming.” If left untreated, scale doesn’t just look bad—it can clog filters, narrow the diameter of your plumbing, and ruin your pool heater by acting as an insulator, causing the unit to overheat.
